How Has the Head Routesetter Role Evolved?

Head Routesetter, Routesetting Manager, Assistant Director of Routesetting, etc. The role(s) of routesetting leadership have evolved and changed a lot over time and I want to talk about it.

I’ve heard a lot of people say “We’ve come a long way since the days of exchanging routesetting for membership and a burrito.” That couldn’t be more true. If I went back in time and asked the baby-routesetter version of myself if they thought I would be writing an article about the evolution of routesetting leadership, let alone asking if it would be possible to provide for a family with the decision to become a career routesetter - they would have laughed myself out of the room.

I say this with an asterisk, because the number of people doing it in the country is still quite small, but the idea of a career routesetter is becoming more and more possible with each passing year. There are more routesetting positions available than ever before, and whether we like it or not - the industry is professionalizing - and I could not be more happy about it.

I started setting in 2008. I feel sandwiched between the first and second generation of routesetters in the US. When I compare now and then, the role of the Head Routesetter can feel very different than when I took on that role for the first time. I’m reminded of this every time I hire someone new.

Take a trip back to the early 2000’s with me.

Back then, there were a lot less multi-gym operations. There certainly weren't any mega-gym operations. Things were done more locally.  If you wanted to apply for a job, it was a lot less likely you were looking much farther than your local gym. It wasn’t possible to check CBJ Job postings for positions across the country in the same way you can now. It seemed like many setting positions were filled internally or given to climbers in the community. The few available routesetting leadership roles were often given to the most tenured individuals, those considered ‘the best,’ or the strongest climber/routesetter nearby. Don’t get me wrong, sometimes this makes sense. Valuing seniority and promoting from within is something I agree with whole-heartedly; but promoting someone into a leadership position based primarily on their fitness level, or because they set ‘the best’ routes - is a different story. Was this out of necessity? There weren’t as many experienced routesetters back then as there are now. There certainly weren’t as many with management/leadership experience as well.

I remember thinking about climbing ability a lot back then. Feeling pressure to train, constantly improve my climbing and overall fitness level. I have never been the strongest on a team, nor do I think I ever will be. Looking back; I’m not sure that was ever the most important part of the Head Routesetter job. Is it now? Well, I can’t argue that it sure helps to be ultra fit, but I suspect the modern day [insert routesetting leadership job title here] needs a lot more skills in their toolkit than just setting fire or pulling hard. What are those skills? Don’t worry - I’ll get to that later.

When I took on my first Head Routesetting role, I was 5 days a week 9-5 routesetting. Nearly 40 hours of holds on walls, forerunning, repeat. I didn’t interact with budgets. I barely thought about scheduling. Admin work wasn’t a thing yet. It was a grind, and I loved it. At the time, I got zero training as a ‘manager’ but I lead a team. I thought I knew everything, but actually knew nothing. I was a tyrant, and I made a ton of mistakes. I think back to how much better my team’s lives would have been if I didn’t just get thrown into a leadership position.

I wasn’t alone in this. Many Head Routesetters found themselves thrust into leadership roles with little to no formal management mentorship or training, reflecting the broader informality of the climbing gym industry at the time. Routesetting was still evolving from a grassroots craft into a professional discipline, and those who excelled at setting were often promoted based on technical skill rather than leadership ability. As a result, Head Routesetters were expected to manage teams, coordinate setting schedules, handle interpersonal conflicts, and align with business goals without clear guidance or institutional support. This lack of structured development often led to inconsistent team cultures, burnout, and inefficiencies, as they had to learn management through trial and error. While some gyms fostered organic mentorship through more experienced staff, the absence of standardized training meant that leadership quality varied widely, shaping the early professional landscape of routesetting in uneven and sometimes challenging ways.

Fast forward to 2026.

According to the CBJ, there are over 900 climbing gyms in North America. There are multiple 30+ location climbing gym chains in the US. A complex hierarchy of Routesetting leadership positions exist across a multitude of sizes and scales of operations. It’s amazing.

So…  is the role of the Head Routesetter the same now it was back then? Don’t get me wrong, there are some gyms where that answer is yes - and that’s okay. But there are others that would say no. What’s different? Has the role evolved? If so, in what way? Has the level of onboarding, mentorship, and training for Head Routesetters increased? The answers to these questions are not really for me to say - I’m merely asking the questions, and sharing my experiences and observations. I’ll let you decide for yourself.

So what would a modern-day Head Routesetter oversee or have involvement in; that might not have been as prevalent back then? Here’s the list of things I came up with:

• Manage budgets
• Write schedules
• Hire and fire staff
• Review Departmental Payroll
• Organize and run multiple events per year
• Coordinate setting offerings with Rec & Competitive teams
• Coordinate setting offerings with Other Program needs
• Coordinate setting offerings with Marketing Team
• Develop/Implement Apprenticeship Programs
• Plan and deliver professional development
• Design and Implement Work at Height Plans
• Liability and Risk Management
• Provide Certifications
• Assist in facility design for new locations

Going back to the question above. Is the role of the Head Routesetter the same now as it was back then?

If you answered no, I’d agree. Many of my colleagues and peers who hold Head Routesetting or Director level positions now seem to be doing more and/or hiring with an expectation of an expanded role. Overall, I think this is a good thing. It tells me the landscape of skills required to fulfill the job duties extends well beyond the days of the past where you just needed to pull V10 moves on command and you were hired. You have to be organized, well-rounded, and professional. You need to be knowledgeable about local regulations and industry best practices. You must be a team player, an educator, and a role model. You will be involved in HR conversations with your staff one minute, and debrief the comp you just organized the next.

The bar has been raised. There are more industry professionals to look to, more consultants, more gyms, bigger gyms, more knowledge. In addition, there are professional standards and best practices published by the CWA. A new fleet of certification programs to lean on.

All this and more has, in large part, contributed to further professionalization of routesetting. The need for higher level routesetting positions in multi-location brands coordinating and managing gyms full of setters - some across state lines or even nationally.

This is just some of what has changed in the last decade or so. I wonder what things will look like in the next decade.  I’m looking forward to finding out.

About the Author

Justin began his routesetting and coaching journey in New England in 2008. Since then, his passion for climbing has evolved into a career dedicated to developing people, programs, and the routesetting profession. He currently serves as Director of Routesetting & Team at Edgeworks Climbing, a network of gyms throughout the greater Seattle area.

A Level 4 USA Climbing certified routesetter, Justin has built and developed routesetting teams across the country. In recent years, his work has focused on the professionalization of routesetting and the development of mentorship and education programs that help setters build sustainable, long-term careers in the industry. This work led to the formation of Vortex Routesetting, a consulting organization that, among other services, provides Work at Height and Professional Routesetting certifications to climbing gyms and universities nationwide.

As a contributing member of the Climbing Wall Association’s Routesetting and Work at Height Committees, Justin is committed to advancing the climbing industry through stronger routesetter education pathways, professional development opportunities, and the development of practical best practices and volunteer Work at Height standards.